At the southern end of White Sand Beach, the actual sandy beach peters out just south of Kacha Resort. From here on the remainder is a mix of mud, small stones and dead coral. Worth bearing on mind if you decide to book a pool villa at Changburi Resort. Beautiful rooms to be sure, but the steps down from to the beach lead less than invitingly onto this area of rough beach. If you stay here you’ll be sunbathing by the pool rather than on the sand and swimming in the pool, not sea. But it is ideal for anyone with loads of disposable income and an adversity to mingling with people with a lower net worth than themselves.

If you budget doesn’t run to a pool villa or even a 2 star, then Alina Grande, Alina Resort and Ban Thai Resort all have acceptable mid-price rooms near the sea. Some older beachfront bungalows are also available at Grandview Resort. Opposite Grandview is a newly constructed shopping plaza, with various shops and small restaurants along the roadside and in rarely visited units set back from the road. Head here for a new pair of glasses, mock-Mexican meal, massage, suit,  morning coffee, pirate DVD and to book a dive course.

In case you’re beginning to panic that I haven’t made any mention of the nearest 7-eleven, fear not. A 100 metre walk from Grandview will bring you to the 7-eleven near Changburi Resort. This area of roadside is also home to the ‘Little Pattaya’ beer bar enclave. Anyone looking for a bit of adult R&R need only head to this cluster of bars which all follow the tried and tested beer bar formula of a square bar with stool seating on all sides and comely maidens serving up bottled beer and games of ‘Connect 4′ until they get whisked away by lobster tanned tourists for a night of unbridled, wallet-emptying passion.

So, if you’re feeling charitable and want to help improve the lives of ladies hailing from the rice farming communities of Isaan, they will all willingly accept cash donations in return for their valuable time. In fact, why not do your bit and stimulate the local economy further by barfining “Sister Me” too? As charitable donations go, this is far more fun than buying a ‘Big Issue’ and more satisfying than sticking a folded banknote in a ‘WorldVision’ envelope at Christmas time. But probably not tax deductible.

Behind these bars is also an apartment block with poky studio rooms to rent cheaply, why anyone would stay here is a mystery to me.  But I guess there is a certain lazy, hardcore whoremonger demographic to whom it appeals.

Head further south, dragging yourself away from the godforsaken smut and sleaze of the bars, and up the hill and you’ll find Koh Chang’s sole Irish Pub, ‘Paddy’s Palms’. It’s Irish in so much as the exterior is green and it has leather sofas and photos of the old country inside. But if you are dieing for a pint of draught Guinness or Kilkenny then it’s worth popping in. The food is the usual average pub stodge but the fish and chips are good and a bit of batter on your snapper makes a nice change from  chili and lemongrass once in a while. A little closer to the beer bars, but on the opposite side of the road are a couple of better places to eat – Thors Palace at Koh Chang Hut, if you want Thai food with a sunset view or Restaurant by Jensen, a small Danish restaurant by a guy called, you guessed it, Jensen.

Large resorts in this area include Plaloma, Top Resort, Koh Chang Hut n Bupha Resort, all on the clifftop overlooking the sea. Plus the new Keereeele Resort (Yes, six ‘e’s) and Paddy’s Palms’ Resort both of which have rooms on the inland side of the main road.

Moving further up the hill the roadside is dotted with small bungalow resorts most of which will do good deals on long term rentals. There are also a few more small beer bars, the names change regularly , as this area doesn’t attract too many visitors in the evening.

However, there are two more restaurants worth of a visit. One is the best somtam shop in the area. No signs in English but they are on the right, just after the entrance to Giant Bungalows and opposite a large  rundown, currently unused,  restaurant. You’ll see the chicken and somtam preparation equipment on the tables at the front of the shop. You cant go wrong here and it’s always busy with Thai visitors at the weekend. Close by is a bakery where you can get cheap bread rolls, which for around 10 baht a piece are good to use for sandwiches. A lot of the White Sand Beach restaurants buy their bread here. Just buy bit of salad from a local shop & some ham/cheese from the 7-eleven and you’ve got a packed lunch or snack or to eat on the beach.

The other recommended restaurant in this area is a little more upmarket, Invito is the best stand alone restaurant on the island and serves up Italian and Mediterranean food is very nice surroundings. It’s pricey, but you do get far better than average farang food and also better than average service. (One of the handful of places on the island where you can happily order a Starter, Main Course and Dessert, and know that they will be brought to your table in that order.) So for a one off treat or special occasion it’s a good place to dine at.

After Invito there isn’t much of interest, a couple of cash and carry’s where you can get your beer cheaply followed by the Bangkok International Clinic. This isn’t a cheap place to get medical treatment. It’s set up solely to cater to visitors with medical insurance and so prices are far higher than you’d pay at a private hospital run by the same company – Bangkok Hospital Group – on the mainland in Trat.  But they do provide as good a medical service as you would get at home, with English speaking doctors, translators and all the shiny bits of hi-tech equipment you’d want a private clinic to have.

You’ll also pass by  a large monkey statue, this marks the entrance to what was a Monkey School.  This closed a while ago but if you decide to head up to take a look you’ll see that the area behind the ticket office and main entrance is now a shanty town for workers.

100 metres past the International Clinic is Koh Chang Choppers where you can rent a pimped out Honda Steed for around 600 – 800 baht/day. The concept is similar to the aforementioned beer bars.  The bikes, like the girls, appear to have seen far better days and have probably been well ridden in Pattaya. But despite their dubious history and the fact you know they might not be safe, you just can’t help giving in to the urge to rent one to see how it feels.

Details and Reviews of hotels and resorts in the  White Sands Beach area