Some recent photos of the estuary in the centre of Klong Prao beach. This area is hidden from view if you are on the beach and also can’t be seem from the main road, so the majority of visitors to Koh Chang don’t know it exists. Similarly, many people working on the island have never been to this area and so are surprised to see a small community of fisherman’s houses that is far less tacky than Bangbao.
For accommodation, there is Aana Resort; the posh Keereeta Lagoona Guesthouse, our place – Baan Rim Nam and at the mouth of the estuary ‘The Hut’ formerly known as Thale Bungalows. In addition, long stay accommodation is available at River View Villas which are adjacent to Aana. Figure on around 10,000 baht/month for a spacious studio bungalow where and you can fish or moor a small boat right outside your door. The nearest beachfront options are the luxury Panviman Resort – with its temple style roofs and Tiger Huts.
Phu Talay and Iyara Seafood provide the waterfront dining options, these are often pretty quiet during the week but get packed with Thai visitors at weekends. These also offer a free firefly tour if you have dinner at the restaurant. You will be taken about 500 metres upstream to an area where you can see fireflies in the mangroves. You can also get food at Cinnamon, Aana Resort’s riverside restaurant, but there really isn’t any point in eating in a hotel when there are better, cheaper options 1 minute walk away. Cheap beer by the river can be had at Sapporot Bar, a small place adjacent to the popular Bodiwork Spa & Coffeeshop, where you can get an excellent massage and some excellent homemade cake. Nearby Sea Breeze is a small Thai restaurant, just a couple of tables on the deck of a house.
To reach the restaurants, take the concrete road adjacent to Ramayana Resort. To get to the beach, the quietest stretch of beach on the west coast, take the dirt 200 meres north of the temple in Klong Prao. This is signposted to Tiger Hut, KP huts and Panviman Resort. Follow the track past all of these and then take any of the dirt tracks you see on the right hand side, leading about 150 metres down to the beach.