The Battle of Ban Chamrak May 1985

Things you didn’t know about Trat province. For example, the Thai and Vietnamese armies fought a major battle here 40 years ago. And if you’re thinking that’s a bit odd as Vietnam doesn’t share a border with Thailand, read on for a modern history lesson.

A lesson that also explains why Koh Chang wasn’t developed for tourists when Phuket and Samui were starting to boom. The proximity to the Cambodian border made Koh Chang a risky area. Vietnamese incursions, like the one at Ban Chamrak, occurred just a short distance from the island. Military installations and refugee camps were dotted along the mainland coast. As a result, Koh Chang remained a remote outpost for fishermen and the occasional backpacker well into the 1990s, long after its southern counterparts had become international tourist magnets.

A Quiet Village Thrust into Conflict

In the hills of Trat province, just a few kilometers from the Cambodian border and the Gulf of Thailand, sits the village of Ban Chamrak (บ้านชำราก). In 1985, this quiet community became the unlikely setting of one of the fiercest ground battles fought on Thai soil since Japanese troops landed during World War II.

Between April and May 1985, more than 1,200 Vietnamese People’s Army (PAVN) troops crossed into Thai territory, occupying a key hilltop overlooking Ban Chamrak in pursuit of Khmer Rouge guerrillas. What followed was a nine-day firefight involving Thai Marines, Rangers, and Air Force jets.

The photos are taken from the Chamrak Municipality website. This PDF, in Thai, tells the story of the battle and it’s legacy for the local community.

Strategic Backdrop: The Indochina Chessboard

Following Vietnam’s 1979 overthrow of the Khmer Rouge regime, Hanoi stationed over 100,000 troops in Cambodia and frequently pursued resistance forces across the border into Thailand. These “hot pursuit” missions repeatedly violated Thai sovereignty and put local communities at risk.

By 1985, tensions had escalated. Vietnamese forces had already raided Thai positions in Buriram and Surin, and in April they turned their attention to the southern front in Trat Province. Their goal: sever Khmer Rouge supply lines believed to run through Ban Chamrak.

It is worth noting that during this time Thailand gave refuge to Pol Pot and other Khmer Rouge leaders. Their operational headquarters was in the Ban Chamrak vicinity and Pol Pot lived near Trat.

Yes, with hindsight it does seem odd that Thailand, with the backing of the USA, allowed the people responsible for 2 million deaths in Cambodia to live freely and be protected by the Thai army. However, despite the little matter of genocide, they were considered preferable leaders to the communist Vietnamese who had ousted them.

The Battle Unfolds

April 20, 1985: Vietnamese troops seize Hill 428 near Ban Chamrak and begin digging in, laying mines and constructing defensive positions.

April 22 -24: Thai Marines and Army Rangers surround the hill and engage in close-range firefights. The Vietnamese show no signs of withdrawing.

May 11: Thai Air Force F-5E and A-37 jets bomb the Vietnamese positions. Ground troops suffer casualties advancing through minefields. Seven Thai soldiers are killed, and 16 wounded.

May 15: An intense artillery duel erupts. Thai forces manage to gain control of a lower spur on the hill.

May 17: After an eight-hour assault, Thai forces reclaim the hilltop. Vietnamese troops retreat across the border.

Forces and Tactics

Vietnam deployed elements of its 5th Division, supported by mortar teams and heavy machine guns. Thai forces included two companies of Marine Rangers, Army Rangers, Border Patrol Police, and Royal Thai Air Force aircraft for close air support.

The terrain, steep ridgelines and dense jungle, favored the defenders. Mines and trench networks made the Thai advance slow and costly.

Casualties and Cost

Thai forces: 9 killed, 63 wounded, 584 caught Malaria
Vietnamese: Estimated 30 – 60 killed (based on body counts), with unknown wounded

While civilians had been evacuated early, the area remained hazardous for years due to landmines and unexploded ordnance. Some farmland is still off-limits today.

Legacy and Memorial

Ban Chamrak Memorial (อนุสรณ์สถานยุทธการบ้านชำราก) now marks the battle site. A teak obelisk honors the fallen Thai soldiers, and a small museum displays weapons fragments and battlefield photos. Annual wreath-laying ceremonies are held on April 20th. The battle is a microcosm of the broader Third Indochina War. It highlights Cold War rivalries, contested borders, and guerrilla warfare tactics.

The site of the battle is here.

It’s an easy drive. However, Googlemaps doesn’t realise there’s a recently paved concrete road all the way. This is the turn you need to take for the final 7km of the drive. The small blue sign on Streetview is for the battle memorial. If you miss this Googlemaps takes you on dirt tracks across farmland which is fun, but takes far longer.