Island Guide

Koh Kood (Koh Kut)Travel Guide

Ko Kut / Koh Kood Information: The Island, Beaches and Accommodation 

Updated for 2023. In this mini-guide I’ll cover everything from how to get to Koh Kood, to the best beaches, to where to stay and the main sights and attractions on the island.

Koh Kood, which is also often spelled as Koh Kut , is a great island to visit and probably the best in Thailand for lovers of beaches, jungles and waterfalls.  Plus the roads are almost deserted, making it an ideal island for exploring by scooter.  As with Koh Mak there isn’t a vehicle ferry to the island.  So, along with the stunning scenery and crystal clear water, expect it to be quiet, even during peak season in January and February.  I always tell people that the island is never busy, even when it is busy.  If you know what I mean :-)

It’s appearance is that of a smaller, less developed Koh Chang.  With jungle clad mountains inland and beaches dotted along the west coast. Koh Kood is far too large for you to be able to walk from beach to beach easily.  It’s around 25 Kms long and 12 Kms wide, making it the fifth largest island in Thailand.

But despite the size, there isn’t much in the way of public transport.  Many resorts are located down dirt tracks, well off the main road, in the middle of nowhere.  So if you leave your resort and walk as far as the road,  you’ll find there are very few shops, bars or restaurants anywhere.   You won’t find any 7-eleven mini-marts, beer bars, tailors shops or other trappings of mass tourism here either. 

The downside is that you can find yourself spending most of your holiday in and around the same beach if you don’t have your own transport.  

For some visitors, that’s ideal – just kick back and enjoy the sun for a week or two.  There are pick-up truck taxis but these mainly run island tours.  Taking families and groups, who don’t rent scooters, on day trips to visit the beaches, waterfalls and other sighs. 

So if you’re used to the conveniences of other islands then Koh Kood might not be for you.  

Way back in 2014, The Guardian called Koh Kut ‘Thailand’s Last Unspoilt Island‘ and it still is, as you can see from this video of some of the highlights.

The local population is estimated at under 2,500, so there aren’t any towns on the island.    But there are four main built up areas.  These are the fishing communities in Ao Salat, in the northeast and Ao Noi, in the south east.  The hospital, police and local government offices are all located in the Klong Hin Dam area, on the west coast.  The east of the island is inaccessible and inhabited.  Dotted around the centre of the island are a handful of waterfalls which are all free to visit and great for a cooling dip. 

The main beaches are spread out along the west and south coasts of the island and there are now over 50 places to stay.  These range from Soneva Kiri, a super luxury 100,000 Baht/ night six star resort to homestays in fishing communities.  

The area around Klong Chao beach and river estuary has become one of the busiest on the island for visitors.   There’s a good choice of locally owned, mid-price bungalows by the river estuary here.  Plus mini-marts and cheap restaurants etc nearby.  And it’s only 5 minutes walk to the beach which is home to some of the island’s best resorts Tinkerbell, High Season, Wendy The Pool Resort and Peter Pan.  Klong Chao is my preferred area to stay when I visit.

Ap Phrao beach, Koh Kood

Koh Kood Beaches

There isn’t one beach that everyone will agree is the best beach on Koh Kood.  Although I’d go for either Klong Chao or Ao Noi. They’re all worth visiting, hop on your scooter, take a look and decide for yourself. 

Yai Kee beach & Soneva Kiri beach

These are located in the northwest of the island, quite a distance form the nearest shops and restaurants.  Soneva Kiri is the most expensive resort on the island and until a couple of years ago had two beaches for their guests to use.  One in the resort and one outside it.  The latter has now been abandoned and is deserted with just the remains of the beach restaurant to be seen.  It’s only accessible via a sandy track from the main road.  Yai Kee is almost as inaccessible.  It is close to the beautiful Baan Makok, a small hideaway resort built from recycled wood in a mangrove estuary.  The larger Captain Hook Resort sits on the opposite side of the river mouth to the beach.  So you’ll need to swim or take a kayak to get there. 

Klong Mad beach

Just a small beach directly outside Suanya Resort, another resort which barely get s a mention on English language sites as it’s aimed squarely at Thai weekend visitors.  The small beach isn’t worth visiting on it’s own but Klong Mad, the  small fishing hamlet is interesting.  It’s cluster of houses built on an inlet.  You’ll get an insight into how subsistence fishermen live.  There are also a couple of small restaurants and coffee shops in the vicinity. And a new guesthouse, Baan Rabieng Talay Homestay, has spotless, value for money rooms ( around 1,4000 Baht / night ) overlooking the water.  And, 5 minutes walk away, there’s another very homely, boutique bungalow resort, Baan Bua Cottage.  This has tastefully decorated wooden bungalows and an excellent restaurant just off the main road.  

Ao Tapao beach

This is the longest on the island and until a few years ago was home to just two resorts – the excellent Shantaa and the run down Koh Kood Cabana.  That’s all changed and a trio of new resorts Koh Kood Paradise Beach, with 200 metres of private beachfront plus the smaller Medee Resort and Sea Far Resort all offer good 3 -4 star standard accommodation.  South of  Sea Far Resort is just 500 metres of quiet, undeveloped beach.  Nearby is a village, Khlong Hin Dam, which as a temple and is also home to the island’s hospital, bank and police station. 

Ao Noi beach

A small beach with just one resort – Ao Noi Resort.  Another older resort that originally catered to Thai package tour groups.  But it’s a very picturesque setting. A lovely little bay with idyllic white sand beach and small jetty belonging to the resort.   Access is via a dirt track through woodland, look for the sign by the main road a kilometre or so north of Klong Chao beach. 

In the past visitors could come and see the beach.  But now it is off limits to outsiders.  A large sign by the entrance make sit clear than visitors aren’t welcome.  But if you’re staying around Klong Chao and have use of a kayak, then it’s a 20 minutes paddle around the headland to the beach. 

Klong Chao beach

As mentioned earlier, Klong Chao is now the tourist centre of the island.  A beautiful stretch of sand with the ideal mix of luxury beachfront resorts plus more wallet-friendly accommodation on the main road and river estuary, 5 to 10 minutes walk away.  You’ll also find find a handful of small shops, restaurants and an ATM.  But unlike Koh Chang’s beaches you aren’t inundated by souvenir shops, tour agents, tattooists or massage shops.

When I go to Koh Kood I always stay here in one of the locally owned bungalow resorts by the river – Mark House, Baan Klong Jao Homestay or Mangrove Bungalows.  It’s good being able to stay in a smaller family owned resort, then wander down to the beach for a sunset cocktail or three.  If you do this, avoid the advertised Happy Hours at the fancy hotels and go straight to the beach bar at Peter Pan Resort for one of the best cocktails you’ll find.  They’re infinitely superior. The Facebook pic below is from our trip to Koh Kood in April 2019 :-)

Although if I had the money then the boutique, beachfront Tinkerbell Resort on would be my first choice.  Followed by the much larger High Season Resort.  Wendy the Pool, is an interesting concept as all the villas have pool access.  However as they are laid out in a horseshoe shape, this doesn’t lend itself to any privacy for guests.  Peter Pan is a good mid range option, although it does lack a swimming pool.  With the aforementioned cocktails being the highlight. 

And for dinner, the riverside restaurant at Mangrove Bungalows is excellent or, a bit cheaper, ‘Ra Beang Mai’, at the entrance to Klong Jao Homestay also serves up delicious Thai food. 

For the best views, head south up the hill to the aptly named Good View bungalows which have a small coffeeshop / restaurant with a panoramic view looking down along the length of the beach.

Ngamkho Beach

After a couple of small hills the road flattens out and runs behind Ngamkho beach.  A lot of this area is undeveloped, with coconut groves lining the beachfront.  At the north end you can access the beach via S Beach Resort or near the south, or Dusita Resort nearer the centre of the beach . And on the best stretch of sand.  Or at the far south at the basic Ngamkho Resort, however there are a lot of rocks in this area.  If you are touring around on your scooter and need a break, check out the pancakes, smoothies and coffee at Nom Khon Station.  A small riverside shack just off the main road.

Sai Daeng beach

Another small hidden beach around a rocky headland to the south of Ngamkho beach.  This one is mainly used by guests staying at Analay Resort & Horizon Resort.  A walkway from Analay Resort runs along the rocks to the mouth of a small lagoon.  You just wade across the lagoon to the deserted 150 metre long beach on the opposite side.  A lovely hidden spot and there are a lot of fish around the rocky headland and Analay Resort pier.   But note that Ananlay Resort don’t allow non-guests in to take a look.  You have to buy a drink if you want to see around the resort. 

Bangbao Beach

A stunning horseshoe shaped bay.  This is one of the most popular beaches on the island with a range of accommodation and some very good snorkelling.  It’s an idyllic spot. 

The problem is that some of the resort owner’s know this and so increase prices but make no effort to renovate rooms or train staff.  So getting value for money can be hard.  If you want to splash out then ‘To The Sea Resort’ has some great views and stylish bungalows.  Or the best mid-price options are The Beach Natural Resort or Koh Kood Resort. 

The only downside is that at high tide most of the beach disappears underwater.  In 2018 a new boutique bed and breakfast ‘Koh Kood BEDs‘ opened just off the main road.  In return for staying 5 mins walk from the beach, you’ll find brand new rooms, attentive staff and very reasonable prices. On the main road nearby there are a few good restaurants, including the excellent ‘Chiang Mai’ and ‘Fisherman’s Hut’ plus a couple of minimarts.  

Low tide at Bangbao Beach, Koh Kood

Takian beach

As you move south of Bangbao the shoreline begins to face southwest , as so the beaches get more of the prevailing winds and tend to have a more windswept feel about them. The sea is often rougher and on the undeveloped stretches of beach garbage, washed up from the ocean, accumulates.  Takian ( Takean ) beach is another picturesque bay with some rocky outcrops breaking up the sand.  Access is via the dirt track signposted to Cham’s House, a very nice , but remote 4 star resort and the neighbouring, contrasting, Pa Hin Sai which has budget fan huts by the sand.   

Klong Hin beach

400 metres long and with just a couple of locally owned and run bungalow resorts, it’s off the beaten track and an ideal spot to do nothing for a couple of days.  But the budget resorts – Klong Hin Beach Resort and Montana Hut are popular with Russian package tourists so mealtimes can be an adventure. Access is via the same road that leads to Takian beach, and then you follow a dirt trail through a coconut grove. This is an awesome location. 

Ao Jak beach

Another beach with only one resort on it.  This is Neverland Beach Resort.  Getting here isn’t so easy even in the dry season.  It’s often a muddy, bumpy, sandy 10 minute scooter ride from the main road.  It’s a fun ride though and it is a beautiful beach, although more exposed to wind than the west coast beaches.  

After the ride you’ll be happy to grab a cold drink at the beach bar or take a swim or walk on the beach.  The main downside is the proximity to nothing else at all  – you’ll be eating all your meals in the resort.  Although there is a new minimart at the rear of the resort if you need some snacks.

Ao Phrao beach

The southernmost of Koh Kood’s beaches, and one of the Top 3 on the island.  A kilometre of south-facing, brilliant white sand.  Ideal for sun-worshippers.  Just four resorts are by the beach with a couple of guesthouses nearby in the small fishing community that live on the estuary at the western end of the beach.

The newest resort in the area is Rest Sea Resort, located at the far western end of the beach.  This is probably the nicest place to stay in the area.

The only downside to staying here is that when the wind blows the sea often gets very rough. And, as with the other beaches towards the south of the island, guests tend to predominantly be Russians on short package tours. 

Getting here involves a 5 minute drive from the main road, just follow the signs for Ao Phrao beach where the main road splits.  Turning tight leads to the beach, turning left to Ao Yai fishing village on the east coast. 

Where to Stay on Koh Kood?

Koh Kood Resorts, Hotels and Bungalows

Originally, Koh Kood’s resorts catered almost exclusively to Thai package tour visitors.  Resort owners had their own boat services and would sell 3 Day / 2 Night packages to groups of weekending Thai visitors.  

This meant that unlike most islands in Thailand, it wasn’t first a backpacker destination.  In fact, it is only in the last decade, with the advent of more daily boat services from the mainland, that budget accommodation has sprung up around the island.  

Nowadays, you can find a room from as little as 500 Baht / night, but if you want to be beachfront then you’ll be looking at around 2,000 Baht / night minimum.  The most expensive resort on the island is the Soneva Kiri which has pool villas for over 100,000 Baht / night.  A beautiful resort and one of the best in Thailand, but definitely for people who want to be sealed off from real life and any contact with islanders.

Overall prices are higher than they would be for similar standard accommodation on other islands, but given the lack of vehicle access to the island, means that the costs involved in building a resort and bringing supplies to the island are far higher than Koh Chang, Koh Samui or Phuket for example.

Sunset over Klong Chao river, Koh Kood

Beach resorts

Tinkerbell Privacy Resort – Only 15 rooms.  Eight on the beach and seven larger pool villas on the second row.  It’s how you imagine an intimate 5 star beach resort should be.  Great staff, good restaurant and a perfect beach.  Plus shops and local restaurants within easy reach.  

The resort has got a great reputation for hosting wedding parties ans it’s relatively small size and great location make it ideal for families to rent the entire resort for a few days.  From around 10,000 Baht / night

High Season Pool Villa Resort – As the name suggests, accommodation here is in pool villas.  These are as good as anything you will find in the Maldives and the resort occupies a 200 metre long stretch of Klong Chao beach and is adjacent to Tinkerbell.  Villas range from a  95Sqm to 180Sqm.  

By the beach you’ll find a huge pool, beach restaurant and cocktail bar with Happy hour prices that make it affordable for outsiders to have a drink  there whilst they enjoy the sunset.  Stunning rooms, great beach, friendly and efficient staff. All you need now is 20,000 Baht / night – assuming you’re happy staying in one of the cheaper villas.

Shantaa Resort – It’s an older resort but one that keeps up the same super high standards year after year.  If you aren’t sure where to stay and want to be guaranteed a great holiday, then you’ll be happy at Shantaa.  Many guests return every year.

It’s tucked away at the northern end of Ao Tapao beach, in the centre of the west coast.  The bungalows are spread out in a huge gently sloping garden which features gazebos for guests to while away their time in peace and quiet.  

There aren’t any televisions in the rooms, as the aim is to provide an environment for guests to chill out and re-connect with each other. The restaurant is also rated as one of the best on the island.

There are no downsides aside from the beach at the hotel not being as long as at some other resorts.  But a 5 minute walk brings you to the main section of Ao Tapao beach where there’s almost  a kilometre of sand plus a handful of other resorts. 

Bungalow resorts

Mangrove Bungalows – I usually stay here or in the neighboring Baan Klong Jao bungalows.  Mangrove is pricier but is a bit nicer.  Both have AC bungalows from around 1500 Baht / night upwards.  Cheaper fan bungalows are also available.  

There are free kayaks so you can paddle down to the beach on head inland along the mangrove lined river towards Klong Chao waterfall – the largest on the island.  The beach is 5 minutes walk away as as several inexpensive restaurants and a handful of local shops.

Koh Kood BEDs – Located just off the main road on the access road to Koh kood beach Resort.  Just four, spotless, spacious rooms in a garden setting.  Far better service and value for money than the nearby beach resorts on Bangbao beach, which is a 10 minute walk away. 

I-Lay House – Probably the smallest beach resort on the island.  Only eight new, air-conditioned wooden bungalows plus a couple of concrete bungalows in a spacious garden by Ao Prao beach. The rooms all have King size beds and all the comforts of home.  Enjoy local hospitality and peace & quiet by a great beach from 2,000 Baht / night. 

Baan Bua Cottage – A handful of very tastefully designed, aircon wooden bungalows hidden just off the main road around 5 mins walk to the beach and a small fishing community.  Friednl;y spot to base yourself if you want accommodation and food a step up from the budget places. 

Jungle Koh Kood Resort – Quite a large resort inland in the Klong Chao area.  Here you’ll find bright, stylish, modern, wooden AC huts. There are large garden areas , a pool to laze around and very good restaurant and cocktail bar. If you backpacked in your youth and swore never to stay in a wooden hut again, then this might just change your mind.  Bungalows from 1,800 Baht / night.

Backpacker friendly budget accommodation

Relax House – Just two spacious, modern air-conditioned bungalows by the main road towards the south of the island. Owned by a very friendly & helpful local family.  1,300 Baht / night but this also includes breakfast and scooter hire. 

The laid back restaurant features excellent home cooking and, with just five tables, is very hard to get a table at unless you are staying there.  

Sand and Sea – Simple fan rooms in the guesthouse plus fan bungalows by the beach tucked away on the southern shore of Bangbao bay.  About 10 minutes walk from Siam Beach Resort.  Good for an ‘old skool’ backpacker experience.  There’s no wi-fi.   Rooms from 600 Baht in High Season

Gumm Lonely Club – Located in the fishing community near Ao Phrao beach, this is for anyone wanting to enjoy a real homestay experience in a renovated fisherman’s house. There are just two fan rooms with a shared bathroom.  The English speaking, Thai owners will cook dinner for guests, take them fishing etc.  Room rate is 700 Baht / night.

The Pink Kangaroo – Dick & Wan, who used to run the popular Viewpoint Cafe , opened a new cafe on the road to Kao Rua Rob naval memorial.  In addition to their famous homemade cakes, coffee and desserts they have a long-stay bungalow available, complete with small kitchenette. Minimum 7 day rental from 800 Baht/night.

It’s a very peaceful place to stay and ideal for anyone planning an extended break on the island. Book via their Facebook page or on Airbnb

If you need more options for places to stay on Koh Kood.  This is a breakdown of the resorts on each of the main beaches.  Plus some cheaper options which are further away from the beach.  You’ll find virtually all accommodation on Koh Kood listed on Booking.com

Tapao Beach

– Shantaa Resort
– Paradise Beach Resort
– Cabana Resort
– Medee Resort
– Sea Far Resort

Klong Chao Beach

– Tinkerbell Resort
– High Season Resort
– Wendy the Pool Resort
– Peter Pan Resort
– Good View Resort
– Away Resort

Ngam Kho Beach

– Ngham Kho Resort
– Dusita Resort
– Horizon Resort
– Kinaree Resort

Bangbao Beach

– Sand and Sea Resort
– Siam Hut Resort
– Siam Beach Resort
– To The Sea Resort
– Beach Natural Resort
– Koh Kood Resort

Ao Prao Beach

– Ao Prao Sunshine Resort
– Ao Prao Resort
– I Lay Resort
– For Rest Guesthouse
– Gumm Lonely Club
– Rest Sea Resort

Elsewhere on smaller beaches . . .

– Cham’s House 
– Pa Hin Sai Resort
– Aoi Noi Resort
– Klong Hin Resort
– Montana Resort
– Neverland Resort
– Analay Resort
– Ban Makok
– Captain Hook Resort
– Soneva Kiri

Cheaper accommodation, away from the beach

– Doy guesthouse
– Mark house
– Klong Chao Garden View
– Klong Chao Homestay
– BB Divers Dormitory
– Ta Yai homestay
– Mangrove Bungalows
– Cozy House
– PD Guesthouse
– Eve Guesthouse
– Dara Guesthouse
– Koh Kood Garden
– Big Dream Resort
– Wave F Homestay
– Happy Days Guesthouse

Rather than searching for all other individually, do a quick search on Booking.com and you’ll find places in your price range.  There are fewer options here than other islands but even in high season you can find rooms for around 1,000 Baht / night if you’re on a budget. 

 

Klong Chao waterfall, Koh Kood

Koh Kood Activities and Attractions

Some of the most popular things to see and do on Koh Kood . . .

Waterfalls

Koh Kood boasts three waterfalls, all of which are free to  visit.  

Klong Chao Waterfall.  The most famous waterfall on Koh Kood and the easiest to reach.  Just follow the road inland from Klong Chao beach.  Keep going after the road becomes a dirst track heading into the jungle and you’ll come to a parking area at the trail head. Most resorts will also run day trips here for guests as it’s one of the most famous sights on the island. Well worth a visit. 

Klong Yai Kee Waterfall.  Located on the way north to Soneva Kiri and Baan Makok. Look for the sign on the right hand side of the road.  The access track leads to a car park from where it’s a short walk to the river and waterfall.  This is a medium size waterfall but with a large pool for swimming.  A great spot to cool off and always quieter than Klong Chao.

Huang Nam Keaw Waterfall.  This was known as the secret waterfall, as until 2012 access was only possible by an arduous walk through the jungle and along the riverbed.  However, in 2012 a road was built and also parking area with toilets for visitors.  

Then there is just a steep 100 metres walk down to the river.  And then a  short walk up the riverbed, scrambling over and around huge boulders, until you reach the falls.   There are road signs in English to the falls. Basically you head towards the big trees and keep going.

Kao Rearub (Rua Rob). You might think that having a naval memorial a few kilometres inland is odd.  Not if it’s built on a small hill that, with a bit of imagination, resembles the prow of a battleship.  Until recently the Prince Chumphon Veterans Memorial Shrine, which is built atop the rocks, was only accessible by dirt track.  Now a paved road leads there.  And if you’re feeling adventurous, you can take a 1.5km walk through the jungle on a signposted trail.

Makka tree (The Big Tree)

You’ll see this marked on maps, in the centre of the island, and probably won’t be too excited about going there.  After all, it’s just a tree.  But the Makka tree, which you’ll also see called ‘The Big Trees’, ‘500 Year Old Tree’  or ‘Sai Yai’ on road signs, is definitely worth a visit.  

Deep in the jungle there are are two massive banyan trees in close proximity to each other.  One estimated at 500 years old, the other around 200 years old.  You won’t see the trees through the dense jungle until you are 20 metres from them.  It’s only when you are up close that you can appreciate the sheer size of them.  Very impressive and kids will love scrambling around the massive buttress roots.

Koh Kood's 500 year old tree

Ao Yai Viewpoint

There’s a great viewpoint overlooking Ao Yai village.  This is also another of the postcard views you see on most travel blogs about the island. There’s nothing other than a covered seating area where you can sit in silence and enjoy the panorama.  You can also often see a few monkeys playing in the trees nearby. 

Big Buddha Statue

If you’re arriving direct form the mainland, keep an eye out when your boat approaches Koh Kood for the gleaming, golden Buddha statue at Ao Salad temple.  The seated Buddha is around 20 metres tall and watches over the fisherman in the village below.  

Snorkelling and Diving

There are three dive companies on the island BB Divers, Koh Kood Divers and Paradise Divers – which was the first diving school on the island.  All offer similar PADI courses plus fun dives and snorkelling trips.  

Expect to pay around 14,500 Baht for the PADI open Water course; 3,000 – 3,500 Baht for a dive trip with two dives.  And 1,200 Baht or so for a snorkelling trip.  Prices include all equipment and lunch on the boat.  

How Clear is the Sea?

If you have been researching Koh Kood then you’ll no doubt have heard how clear the brilliant blue water is.  A video is worth a thousand words and this was made by a couple of our guests who also stayed on Koh Kood in early 2017.  Filmed by Marc and his drone and edited by his daughter  Dominique . . .

How to Get to Koh Kood

Firstly, you’ll have to figure out how to get from Bangkok to Koh Kood.  The last part of the journey will be by passenger boat as there aren’t any vehicle ferres to the islan.  So travellin door to door in he same vehicle isn’t possible.

In brief, the options are:

Plane + minibus /private transfer 

Book a flight on Bangkok Airways to Trat. Then from Trat Airport take a shared minibus or arrange a private transfer to Laem Sok pier.

Private transfer. Arrange a car or minibus and driver to pick you up from you hotel in Bangkok or Don Meuang  / Suvarnabhumi Airport and drive you to the pier.

Boonsiri Ferry Bus and Boat

Combined bus and boat service.  They run a bus that departs from their office near Khao San Road in Bangkok and is scheduled so that passengers can catch either of their two daily sailings from Laem Sok pier to Koh Kood. 

Public bus or minibus  

If you aren’t in a hurry then take a bus or minibus from Ekkamai bus station in Bangkok to Trat.  Spend a night n trat and then next mornin come to koh kood.  The boat companies arrange transport from hotels in Trat town to the pier.  Your hotel in Trat will book boat tickets. 

Trat is a laid back town and offers a chance to see some normal life away from the more touristic areas of Thailand. 

Boats to Koh Kood

Ferries to Koh Kood depart from the mainland pier at Laem Sok, Trat.  There aren’t any vehicle ferries, only passenger boats.  These are run by four companies – Boonsiri Ferry, Seudamgo, Koh Kood Princess and Ko Kut Express. They all their their own ticket offices near the pier.  

During the High Season, the first boat of the day is at 09:00 and the last at 14:20.  Therefore, if you are coming from Bangkok you will need to make an early start.  Many visitors opt to stay a night in Trat town and then the next morning come to Koh Kood.  

The boat companies all provide transport from hotels in Trat to the ferry pier.  This is by local pick up truck taxi, called a ‘songtaew’. When you arrive on Koh Kood you don’t have to worry about hoe to get to your resort as the boat ticket also includes transport from the pier at Ao Salad bay to resorts on the island. 

Boats run daily all year round, but there is a reduced service from mid-May to mid-October.  And all hotels can book boat tickets for you.  Ticket price ranges from 350 to 600 Baht per person.

If you are coming from Koh Chang, both Bangbao boat and Kai Bae Hut speedboat run speedboat services between Koh Chang – Koh Mak – Koh Kood during the high season.  These usually start running on 1 November and stop some time in May. Buy tickets from any tour agent on Koh Chang.  The one way price is 1,200 Baht per person. 

Not resumed after covid Boonsiri Ferry also run a service between Bangbao pier, Koh Chang, Koh Mak and Koh Kood.  This will depart Koh Chang at 10:00, calling at Koh Mak at 11:00 and Koh Kood at 11:45.  The return leaves Koh Kood at 12:15, reaching Koh Mak at 12:45 and Koh Chang at 14:00.  This is a far more comfortable way of making the journey than by speedboat. 

The downside is that it takes longer.  As you also have to factor in the 30 minutes to an hour drive when you’re on Koh Kood to get from the pier at Ao Salad, in the north of the island, to the west coast beaches.   Ticket price to Koh Mak is 500 Baht and 750 Baht to Koh Kood. Again, this is also  a high season only service and not year round.

Another new service, also from Boonsiri Ferry, is a combined bus and boat ticket from Trat Airport to Koh Kood.  This is for passengers arriving on PG301 or PG305.  The ticket price is 1,000 Baht per person.  The same service operates in reverse, if you are flying out of Trat on PG306, PG308 or PG310, you can buy a tickets that covers the entire journey from your hotel on Koh Kood to the airport for the same price – 800 Baht/person.

You’ll find up to date timetables and more information about the different boat services to Koh Kood on KohKoodFerries.com

An Island Tour

This video was filmed by a couple of visitors in 2019.  It gives a good overview of some of Koh Kood’s sights and the main beaches. 

Tips & FAQs For Visitors to Koh Kood

Cash is King

Bring cash with you.  As there is only one small bank and three ATMs on the island.  The bank and one ATM are located adjacent to Koh Kood Hospital.  And the other ATM is roadside just south of High Season Resort on Klong Chao beach.  And a third is located, midway between these two, at a roadside mini-mart close to the popular Fisherman’s Hut restaurant.

There are a few resorts that will give cash advances for non-guests.  But they will charge around 5% commission.  It is also possible to exchange USD, GBP or EUR  at some resorts and shops on the island.  But don’t expect a great rate.  It’s far better to exchange the money on the mainland or on Koh Chang before you arrive. 

Internet Access

Pretty much all accommodation from small guesthouses up to luxury resorts now offer free wi-fi to guests.  However, the speed may not be as fast as in more developed areas of Thailand.  In fact, you’ll find that your phone’s mobile wifi speed may well be faster.  4G coverage is widespread on the island and the main beach areas now also have 5G coverage. True Move and AIS are the best mobile operators to use. 

Healthcare

Koh Kood hospital is located on the main road near Ao Tapao beach. It is well equipped and the resident nurses and doctors can handle most common ailments and injuries. In emergencies or critical situations, an airlift or boat transfer to Bangkok Hospital in Trat or Chanthaburi can be arranged.   This is very expensive so I’d advise having good travel / health insurance.

There is a good locally owned pharmacy, simply called Koh Kood Pharmacy, about 1km south of the hospital.  It is well stocked and can also order specific medication if you contact them in advance.

Food & Drink

There are quite a few small restaurants on the island.  Here are a few to try which are on the west coast within easy reach of most resorts.  It’s also well worth heading to the fishing villages of Ao Yai or Ao Salad for some delicious, freshly caught seafood in a ramshackle restaurant built on stilts over the sea.

View Point Café – For a coffee, cake or a relaxing sunset beer on the estuary.

The Pink Kangaroo – Run by Dick & Wan, who previously had the Viewpoint Cafe.  Exceptional homemade coffee, cakes and smoothies.  Great place to stop if you’re scootering around the island. 

Relax House – Probably the best Thai food on the island. Reservations are required. Tel: 080 651 2779

Noochy Seafood – Very popular seafood restaurant in Ao Yai fishing village. Often packed with Thai visitors.  

Chiang Mai Restaurant – Good restaurant with northern Thai food and large portions.

The Fisherman Hut – Funky restaurant 800 metres north of Klong Chao beach with popular seafood barbecue.

Chaiyo Restaurant – Small local Thai restaurant with surprisingly good food.

Pizza & Pasta – Run by Italians who understand what is good food is all about. If you’re missing good Western food, head here.

Mangrove Resort restaurant – Delicious Thai food by the river.  Gets rave reviews on Thai language sites. 

Scooter Hire

You’ll need a scooter if you want to really appreciate the island.  It’s too large and hilly to walk around and the public taxis usually only take people on day tours.  If you want to explore, rent a scooter.  

The bikes are mostly 125cc Honda or Yamaha automatics.  Figure on 250 – 400 Baht  / 24 hours depending on its age and condition. Buy fuel from the gas station just north of the hospital.  It’s cheaper to fill up there than buy bottles from roadside stalls.

Sandflies

Expect some sandflies, as they prefer quieter beaches.  Not everyone reacts badly to their bites.  But if you are susceptible then it’s worth packing some extra strength hydrocortisone cream to stop any itching.  

Locally made ‘Yellow Oil’ also helps reduce the swelling from bites and reduce itchiness. There isn’t one definitive method to keep them at bay but coconut oil seems to work pretty well.  Buy locally made oil in small glass bottles ( recycled energy drink bottles ) from shops or your resort. 

Torches

There isn’t much street lighting, so bring a headtorch or flashlight with you when you go out in the evening.  Especially if your resort is along a dirt track leading off the main road.  Trying to find your way along a potholed road in the darkness isn’t fun. 

Island Map

This is a map of some of the highlights on Koh Kood.  It includes things to  see and do; the best beaches; restaurants and places to stay in various price ranges. 

If you click or scan this QR code you’ll get a version of the interactive map which is easier to use and has more information.
 
Interactive Koh Kood Map
And finally, you can download a much more detailed print map, produced by Koh Chang Guide, which you’ll find available at resorts on the island here: Koh Kut Map PDF
 

 

55 Comments

  • great article.. thanks for the information it will be useful for my friends who are visiting from Nepal

  • On Koh Chang there’s nowhere specific to avoid. The prevailing wind is usually from the southwest, so it will affect all the west coast beaches the same. The east of the island will usually have a calmer sea. On Koh kood, Bangbao Bay faces west but is very sheltered. So should have calmer sea and be better for swimming than other main beaches.

    Bear in mind that there aren’t any boat services between Koh Kood and Koh Chang in June. So getting between the islands is a bit of a hassle. ( Back to Laem Sok pier, Trat, then a 45 minute drive to Ao Thammachat pier for a boat to Koh Chang.)

  • Thanks so for such awesome information, it’s really helped my planning. We’ll be visiting Koh Kood & Koh Chang late June. Would you recommend any particular area that is more protected from potential weather at that time of the year for both islands. TIA

  • Hey Ian,

    Such a comprehensive guide, thank you!

    We can’t seem to find confirmation as to whether there are currently boats running between Koh Chang and Koh Kood. We are going to Koh Chang but really want to make it to Koh Kood for a few nights also as the beaches look stunning!

    Thanks :)

  • It might be is the answer. As it all depends on whether BB Divers have a boat trip going from Koh Chang to the main dive / snorkelling sites on the same day as they also have a boat going from Koh Kood to the same sites. If you so can probably book as a snorkeller and switch boats. Contact BB Divers on Facebook or via their site a few days in advance and they’ll be able to let you know if it is possible.

  • Hi Ian is it possible to combine a snorkel trip from Koh Chang in such a way that I can use it also to get to Koh Kood? So take my luggage snorkel on the way to Koh Kood in various islands and then get off in Koh Kood?thx

  • Hi Ian,
    Many thanks for this comprehensive view. I have 5 day’s to spare but, the Island may be just a little too quiet for me as I’m a fan of the odd beer bar, so probably, Ko Mak again. Regards

    Phil

  • There’s some snorkeling in the small cove near Cliff Cottage, Bangbao. But it’s nowhere near as good as you’ll find at the islands south of Koh Chang where the day trips go.

    It’s easy to get from Koh Kood to Koh Chang. There are boat services that operate in the high season. At the moment I’m not sure which boats will be running, as that will depend on how busy the islands are. Will have to wait and see when high season starts.

    Wait until nearer the time and then you’ll be able to find out what the options are. But don’t worry about there not being any boat service. :-)

  • Hi,
    We plan to visit Thailand at the end of January 2023 (hopefully no new lock down). We were at Ko Chan last time and looking for something new. Is snorkeling at Bangbao Beach off-shore? Any particular good spots?

    Is possible to stay few days at Koh Kood and then go to Koh Chan? What mode of transportation should we use 9I mean not for on-day trip, but to go with luggage for few days to Koh Chan).

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

  • It’s a great island to visit. But not much to do if it’s raining alot. And there’s no way to know in advance what the weather will be like.

    Usually any heavy rain is at night or early morning. The afternoon & evening is dry. But if you’re unlucky you might get a week of rain with very little sun.

    If decide to visit then have a Plan B, in case you find it’s too wet to stay there and want to move on sooner than planned.

  • Hi, Great report! We are travelling in July through Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. Do you recommend visiting Koh Kut. Or will it be to wet to enjoy the eiland. Thanks

  • As far as I know no resorts on Koh Kood have jellyfish nets. On Koh Mak, most of the large beachfront resorts do. Although it’s best to check direct with the resort you’re interested in staying at.

    Anyone can swim in the netted areas, they aren’t private.

  • Hello,
    Do you know on which beaches of Koh Kood and Koh Mak there is nets protecting from the box jellyfish ? And If they were installed by a resort, do we have to be customers of the resort to be able to swim inside the net ? Thanks a lot if you can get me the answer.

  • Thanks for sharing this best travel guide useful info for visiting Koh Kood island. It was very useful for me.

  • You can now visit and stay at the Ao Noy beach by paying a 200 bht fee/person. We went there yesterday (without paying, no one asked for the tax, but there were a few signs about this).
    The place is nice, indeed. The rooms are on the expensive side – we asked the lady from the desk front and she said it was 3500 bht/night.

  • Now is a good time to visit. Good weather, clear sea and blue sky. Also not too hot. High season runs from December to April.

    You will have to stay a night in Bangkok, unless you are arriving there very early morning.

  • Hi,
    What is the best time to visit the island? My very first time visiting Thailand.
    I feel comfortable booking with Boonsiri Ferry so that I can travel with their bus from Bankok.
    Do you recommend spending one night in Bankok and catch their bus the following day?
    Kindly advise. Thank you.

  • “”Koh Kood is further south & box jellyfish have been seen there. But the cases of people being stung are around Koh Mak””
    Are there many Box jellyfish???? Box jellyfishes are deadly.
    Thanks

  • Everything will still be open in April and boat services running as normal. But the island will be very busy at Thai New year. The weather should still be OK and the sea calm. But there can be overnight thunderstorms in April as it’s one of the hottest months of the year. So you get clouds building up for a day or two, then a nice thunder & lighting show with a heavy downpour. But the next morning the sky will be clear again.

  • Hi. Thanks for all the useful info. I’ve been in February and loved it in Koh Kood. I wanted to bring my mum back in April – are the conditions still good here in April?
    Thanks 🙏

  • Hi Niina. The Klong Chao area is the best place to stay if you want a good choice of places to eat plus a few small shops within easy walking distance of your hotel.

    Away Resort only has a small pool. A cheaper alternative nearby is Mark House, which has AC bungalows & rooms and a pool but no views as it’s on the road behind the beach.

  • Hi, we are planning to stay at Koh Kood 8 nights in January. Looking for a nice pool, cheap restaurants near and not too expensive hotel. Any recommendations? Is it a long way to restaurants from Away Koh Kood resort?
    Thanks for your help!

  • No one will agree on which beach is nicest or best. But try Klong Chao beach as its very nice and also ticks the boxes for having good accommodation and restaurants.

  • Which is the nicest beach do you think for staying at? We have 3 nights there.
    Looking for pristine beach, nice accomodation and close to restaurants.

  • The rainy season usually ends some time in mid to late October. So the weather should be OK, but there will be some rain.

    The passenger boats from the mainland will be running. Boonsiri Ferry is the largest and newest boat.

    Klong Chao beach is the best area to stay if you want restaurants & some small shops within walking distance.

  • hello. would like to vist ko kood this october (15th) with a year old baby and a 5 year old. its the low season, so is it worth it weather wise? what is the best and comfortable way to get there this time of year? and i want a nice hotel 4-5 star or very good 3 star, on the beach with a pool with near by stores and restaurants. any suggestions?

  • Thank you for the travel advice. It was very useful as the Lonely Planet has very little info. Many thanks.

  • I can’t remember seeing any beach massage places. Although there are roadside massage shops in some areas which are way cheaper than those in resorts.

  • Can you get a massage on the beach anywhere or is it all hotel/spa massage?

  • hello, anybody knows if there is security at LAEM SOK on the main land where we must park the car ? thank you.

  • That’s Tinkerbell Resort on Klong Chao beach at the start of the video. There are four expensive resorts on this beach – Tinkerbell, Wendy, High Season and Peter Pan. And cheaper accommodation on the river estuary 5 minutes walk away.

  • If you are a beach lover Koh Kood is best for you as it is well known place to visit. There are many beaches are there and not even single beach is not worthy all beaches are excellent and well worth visiting.

  • All beaches are public. The only one I’ve heard people get asked to leave is at Soneva Kiri which doesn’t like outsiders showing up unannounced. Apart from that you shouldn’t have a problem anywhere. Enjoy your day.

  • Hi Ian. Any ideas about which resorts charge for landing on their beaches? Planning a boat trip round Koh Kood.

  • Koh Kood is further south & box jellyfish have been seen there. But the cases of people being stung are around Koh Mak.

  • You mentioned jellyfish near Koh Mak but not near Koh Kood? Aren’t these islands in the same area?

  • Good you enjoyed it. try Shantaa, High Season or Tinkerbell. They’re all excellent and better located than Soneva Kiri if you want to be able to see the island and eat in a few local restaurants.

  • We’re visiting Koh Kood 2 Years ago for our honeymoon. A bit pricey but perfect was Soneva Kiri Resort. My partner and I are planning to spend our next trip from Dez 16th to Jan 7th there again

  • Found the information very useful Intend to be in Koh Chang and Koh Kood in November it looks as good as I have heard and you have given some ideas of Hotels thanks

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Koh Chang Island Guide For Independent Travellers